WWW ALDHAWest

Trails

Hiking

Join ALDHA-West!

Mail Bag

Long Distance Hiking in Europe

By Chris Townsend

Hiking in Europe is different in many ways to hiking in North America. Firstly, the wild areas are much smaller and closer to towns, except in the far north, so resupplying is much easier. Secondly in many areas there are chains of huts that mean you can travel light and stay under a roof every night. There are, however, plenty of opportunities for those, like me, who prefer camping out. Europe of course is a large place and the landscape and climate varies enormously from region to region. A hike north of the Arctic Circle in Lappland will be very different from one in the high mountains of the Pyrenees.

"Official" long distance routes do exist in Europe, especially in France where they are known as Sentiers de Grande Randonees, usually shortened to GR as in the GR5 that runs from the north coast to the Mediterranean. However I've not hiked any of these routes. The long distance routes I've done in Europe have linked shorter footpaths and cross country sections instead, something that is easy to do in most countries. Doing like this I've hiked 1300 miles south-north through the mountains of Norway and Sweden, 1250 miles end to end through Britain and 1600 miles over the 517 3,000 foot plus summits of Scotland.

Here I've described some favourite walks from 100 to 500 miles long . As my great love is for wild mountain country with few signs of civilisation that is reflected in these hikes. It's why I prefer the Scandinavian mountains to the Alps. I'm drawn to northern wildernesses, to the wide-open skies and vast spaces of arctic tundra and the dark depths of the great north woods. Yet at the same time part of me hankers after the sun and the shimmering heat of the south, hence my liking for the Pyrenees, especially the Spanish side.

Kungsleden, Sweden

If I had to pick one area of Europe as my favourite it would be the vast unspoilt wilderness of Arctic Scandinavia, the largest by far left in western Europe and the nearest there is to the great wildernesses of North America. In Swedish Lapland a 250-mile long footpath runs south north through the heart of this land. This is Kungsleden, the King's Way, a magnificent trail that passes through four national parks - Pieljekaise, Sarek, Stora Sjöfjallets and Abisko - as well as Vindelfjällens nature reserve, at 1852 square miles the largest in Europe, larger in fact than the country of Luxembourg. Along the way there is a great variety of scenery - snow clad mountains, arctic tundra, huge lakes, powerful rivers, thundering waterfalls and spreading forests of birch and pine, all with a feel of the north, a sense of the vastness and space that defines northern landscapes. There is much wildlife too and reindeer, semi-domesticated here, are likely to be seen.

The trail is waymarked with cairns or large upright stones topped with red paint. There are bridges across the deeper rivers and rowing boats or ferries for crossing the long east-west running lakes that lie across the route. At high points there are basic wind shelters for protection from the weather. The trail is fairly dry but even so, hiking boots will instantly mark you as a foreigner as Swedes invariably wear knee high green rubber boots - albeit ones designed for mountain use - for walking.

There are huts for walkers along Kungsleden, run by the Swedish Mountain Touring Club (STF), so the route can be walked without camping equipment having to be carried. However the number of spectacular and beautiful potential campsites make this a wild camper's paradise.

The Pyrenees High Level Route, France/Spain

The Pyrenees are a wonderful mountain range, a mix of alpine grandeur and Mediterranean heat. The magnificent High Level Route runs for some 500 miles along the whole length of the range from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. This is mountain hiking at its most glorious, a rollercoaster of a walk. From the green meadows of the Basque country the trail heads east to the soaring pale limestone pinnacles of the Cirque d'Ansabere, then past the spectacular rock tower of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau and the great north face of the Vingemale, the massive cliffs of the Cirque de Gavarnie and the highest peak in the Pyrenees, glacier clad 11,165 foot high Pico de Aneto, before descending gradually to the heat of the Mediterranean. The walking is on narrow winding paths, often on the crest of the mountains. To the north wooded valleys fall away into often misty, often rainy France, to the south dry dusty ravines run down into the shimmering heat haze of arid Spain. With a choice of routes either side of the border when it rains in France you can easily head south into the Spanish sunshine. At times the cloud actually hangs on the border, a great wall of grey rising up out of France.

Along the route are a string of alpine huts and gites d'etape providing bunkbeds, meals and a chance to meet other hikers. There are many wonderful high campsites however so I prefer camping. With no mosquitoes and mostly dry weather camping is a joy. Some of the peaks along the way, such as 9,865 foot Grande Fache, can be easily ascended though others require climbing skills and equipment. Diversions can also be made to some of the deep canyons on the Spanish side, in particular the amazing Ordesa Canyon, south of Gavarnie, with its massive 3,200-foot high castellated tiers of multi-hued yellow, purple and red banded limestone.

Across the Jotunheim, Norway

Norway is home to some of the wildest and least spoilt land left in Europe, making it one of the best countries for long distance walking. The impressive Jotunheim, the Home of the Giants, contains the highest mountains in the country, a tangled mass of steep rock peaks split by twisting glaciers. The area, most of it protected in a national park, isn't large (some 1500 square miles) but the scenery is amazingly rugged with a huge number of peaks. There are also magnificent lakes such as Gjende and Bygdin, thundering waterfalls and, in deep Utladalen in the west, a softer landscape of birch and pine forest. There are a number of possible routes across the Jotunheim. A good 100-mile one starts in the east at Gjendesheim at the foot of Gjende lake and finishes at Ovre Ardal at the head of Ardals lake in the west. En route you can head north to Glitterheim and Spiterstulen for optional ascents of the two highest peaks, Galdhopiggen (8098 feet) and Glittertind (8082 feet). As it descends Utladalen this route also passes Vettisfossen, Norway's highest waterfall at 900 feet. Main paths are marked by rocks painted with a red T, the symbol of Den Norske Turistforening (DNT), the organization that runs the mountain huts found throughout the Norwegian mountains. These huts, some of them more like hotels, can be used every night but camping is an attractive alternative. The walking is usually on rough and rocky terrain and there are many steep climbs and descents even if Galdhoppiggen and Glittertind are bypassed. In places snow patches have to be crossed even in summer though ice axes are not needed.

Coast to Coast Across the Highlands, Scotland

The finest and wildest walking in Britain is to be found in the Scottish Highlands and a good way to experience the area is by walking from coast to coast. The Highlands are a mix of superb coastal scenery, beautiful rivers and lochs, ancient forests, rugged glens and wild islands as well as magnificent mountains. The scale of the landscape is far bigger than elsewhere in Britain. The mountains are higher, the lakes bigger, the waterfalls longer. There's a feel of the far north in the Highlands, a touch of the wild arctic, a sense of space and freedom. There is great variety too, from the steep peaks, fjord-like sea lochs and deep, narrow glens in the west to the high plateaux and broad straths of the east. There is no "official" route for crossing the Highlands. Instead there are many options, low and high level. I've walked seven different routes myself, ranging in length from 175 to 300 miles. It can be an easy glens and passes walk or a hard high mountain hike or a combination of both. Although the mountains may be small compared with others in Europe, the highest peak is 4,409-foot Ben Nevis, the northerly situation gives them a seriousness that belies their stature. The lack of waymarked paths and hut systems makes for more of a challenge too. Good navigation skills are essential. To see the best of the country I'd recommend camping though you can link hostels, B&Bs and hotels. There are some basic shelters, called bothies, scattered amongst the hills though these are small and provide no more than a roof over your head.

Porsmork to Landmannalaugar, Iceland

The amazing scenery of this Land of Ice and Fire with its spectacular waterfalls, ice caps, hot springs and active volcanoes makes for rugged but exciting walking. The uncompromising landscape is unique, a mix of black and red volcanic lava and shining white ice. Only 25% of the land has continuous plant coverage and that's mostly round the coast, which is also where all the inhabitants live. Plants may be scarce but birds are abundant and there are many exciting species including snowy owls and gyr falcons. There are many possibilities for hiking in Iceland. The one I'd highly recommend lies in the south of the island and leads past the miniature birch trees at Porsmork, Iceland's only forest, along the wide bare valley of the wild Markafljot River under the great Myrdalsjokull ice cap and then across the mountains to the hot pools of Landmannalaugar where you can ease aching muscles. En route there are deep gorges, impressive waterfalls and fine rock peaks. Because Iceland lies only just south of the Arctic Circle and is stuck out in the Atlantic right in the path of depressions the season when the land is snow free is short and the weather can be wild even in the middle of summer. There are basic huts in the interior run by the Icelandic Touring Club but many are small and they may not be available to non- members so camping is essential. Tents should be capable of standing up to strong winds and heavy rain. Plenty of time is needed too as rivers can rise rapidly and be difficult to ford. The terrain is rugged and the walking on soft gravel and sand or blocks of sharp lava can be quite hard. There is a waymarked path of sorts but in a land where even vehicle tracks disappear every year in the shifting volcanic rubble it shouldn't be relied on.

Across the Hardangervidda, Norway

The Hardangervidda is Europe's largest mountain plateau at more than 3869 square miles. Over a third of this area is protected in the Hardangervidda National Park. Most of the region is over 3,000 feet high, a vast treeless expanse with an incredible sense of boundless space. The area is famous for its bird and plant life and herds of wild reindeer, some of the few left in Scandinavia- most reindeer are domesticated. In the east the plateau consists mostly of gently rolling terrain giving easy walking. In the west though the scenery is more rugged with deeper valleys and higher peaks and that is where the most splendid walking lies. The route I'd recommend starts at Finse, the high point, at 4000 feet, on the Oslo-Bergen railway, below the great white dome of the 6107 feet Hardangerjokul ice cap from which waves of shattered ice flow down between rock walls into the valleys below. South of the ice cap the walk passes the spectacular 597 feet drop of the Voringsfoss waterfall and, further south still, the 5543 feet high rock tower of Hurteigen, the highest point on the central Vidda. The rock walls of Hurteigen are steep on every side but the peak can be ascended on a side trip by a somewhat exposed though easy scramble up a narrow gully and then across a sloping rock wall that is protected by fixed chains in places. From Hurteigen the route turns west to descend Husedalen beside a series of impressive waterfalls on the River Kinso to sea level at the village of Kinsarvik, which lies on one of the many arms of the huge Hardangerfjord. There is a network of DNT huts spread over the Hardangervidda but also ample opportunity for wild camping.

Further Reading

There are vast numbers of books on hiking in Europe. Here is a very small selection:

Clear Waters Rising: A Mountain Walk Across Europe by Nicholas Crane Penguin

The story of a 17-month walk from the Atlantic Ocean to Istanbul.

Journey Through Europe by John Hillaby Houghton Mifflin

Story of a walk from the North Sea to the Mediterranean Sea

Walking in the Alps by Kev Reynolds Cicerone

A comprehensive guide

Walking in Norway by Connie Roos Cicerone

A selection of walks

Long Distance Walks in the Pyrenees by Chris Townsend Crowood

Ten illustrated walks

The Munros and Tops by Chris Townsend Mainstream

Story of a 1600 mile walk over the 517 3,000 foot summits in the Scottish Highlands

Pyrenees High Level Route by Georges Veron & West Col

Detailed guide

Chris Townsend.
Mountain & Wilderness Writing & Photography.
Auchnarrow, Grantown-on-Spey, Moray, PH26 3PL
Tel: 01479 873275.
Fax: 0870 164 1841.
Email: Chris@auchnarrow.demon.co.uk
Web Site: http://www.auchnarrow.demon.co.uk