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Trail Profile: The Wonderland Trail

The Wonderland Trail is a 93-mile jaunt around the crown of the Cascade mountains, Mt. Rainier. In that 93 miles, the trail has an elevation gain of over 20,000 feet, or an average of about 215 feet of elevation gain for every mile of trail!

A Steep Trail

Being situated on a 14,000 foot mountain isn’t cause for concern if you are worried about elevation. The high point on the trail is just over 6800 feet at Panhandle Gap, and the low point is just under 2400 feet at Ipsut Creek.

But be prepared for elevation gains and losses. The trail was built in the early 1900s and takes the "straight-on" approach to gaining elevation. Not a lot of switchbacks on this trail. From Ipsut Creek to Mystic Camp is a 3200 foot elevation gain in 5 ½ miles! You should expect to gain and lose about 3-5000 feet of elevation each day! The highest camp on the trail is at Sunrise at 6300 feet, and it can freeze there even in the middle of the summer.

Season

The best weather on the mountain is usually from July to September, but be aware that the trail is often snow-covered until late July or August. Mt. Rainier makes its own weather; a forecast in Seattle may not indicate what to expect at 6000 feet on the mountain. Fog and rain often arrive rapidly and unexpectedly. Flash floods are not uncommon in the canyons during heavy rains. Day time temperatures can be in the 70s-80s dropping to the low 40s at night. As always, dress appropriately and be keen on the weather eye.

Time

It is suggested that you plan on 8-10 days to hike the trail. This will give plenty of time to take in the scenery and savor the fine vistas. Take plenty of film; if the weather holds you will be tempted with photo shots at every bend. The glaciers glisten in their cerulean blue and white. Flowers abound, and even in August the blooms are abundant. Not withstanding is the majestic mountain, Tahoma, as the Indians called it.

Camping Regulations

Camping on the Wonderland Tail is strictly regulated by the NPS, complete with reservations and itineraries. Starting this year, there will be a trail fee. This year, a Wilderness Permit Fee Program will be in effect from June 1 through September 30. You can get your wilderness permits and pay your permit fees at the following sites: Longmire and White River Wilderness Information Centers, and the Paradise Ranger Station. The fee will be $10 for the wilderness permit plus $5 for each person in your group. The permit allows you up to 14 days in the park’s wilderness. A $40 Annual Wilderness Permit is also be available.

The established camps vary in size from 1 to 8 sites. The NPS emphasizes using these sites and all reservations are made based on your itinerary. Camps are usually an easy 4-7 mile apart. If you do get off schedule, the NPS does ask that you reschedule at the nearest Ranger Station.

If you prefer to do back country camping, be sure to check the current regulations. You still need a permit and you must make your camp at least ¼ mile from the trail and at least 100 feet from any water. If you choose to camp above 7000 feet you will be required to pack out all waste.

Access & Traffic

There are seven main trailheads: Longmire, Paradise, Box Canyon, White River, Sunrise, Ipsut Creek, and Mowich Lake.

In ‘91, when we hiked the Wonderland with our 9- and 11-year-old, we found the trail easy to follow, and for the most part well-marked. There was a lot of trail traffic around the trail heads and near the roads. Don’t be surprised to see 100-200 people a day between Summerland and Sunrise, or near the Reflection Lakes.

You can avoid the car camping crowds of Ipsut Creek and Mowich Lake if you stay on the Spray Park trail. This trail passes through three separate parks, or alpine areas: Spray Park, Mist Park and Seattle Park. It also provides a view of the Russel Glacier, Willis Wall, and Ptarmigan Ridge.

Resupply

The Park Service does allow you to cache supplies at numerous locations, but only Sunrise Ranger Station will store fuel for you. Have the following information printed on the outside:

Food cache for: (Your Name)
For pick-up at: (name of cache station)
For pick-up on: (date)

Information Resources

Park Superintendent
Mount Rainier National Park
Tahoma Woods Star Route
Ashford, Washington 98304
(360) 569-2211

Or check out their web site at: http://www.nps.gov/mora/mora.htm

Conclusion

My wife Chris and I are going back for a second trip around the mountain this summer. Our children won’t be accompanying us this time. We look forward to the vistas, the panoramas and the company of the trail.